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Hi.  Also note that you need a license including class C1 to drive a vehicle over 3500k.  It's the allowed gross weight that counts (the designed maximum on the plate).  If you passed your test since 1997 you may not have C1 on the license.  You need to check the plate on the van you have.
Overloading is a different issue, as rustbuss pointed out.  That means your vehicle weighs in at more than it's design max.  Everyone gets done if they get caught doing that!

As Nick says you don't need certificates for personal use, only for trading.  But I strongly advise you to follow the standards, and def get a CO alarm.  I'm on my third conversion now and I'd allow about 1K for basic hardware, eg. cooker, sink, battery,  split charge stuff, fuses, lights, etc. and you should have enough for furniture materials, like hinges, catches, sheet material etc. etc.  Allow extra if you want a cassette toilet, gas or diesel heater, fridge and other luxuries.  You can price all this up easily online.  Once it's finished get the V5 changed to Motor Caravan so you can run at car speed limits and keep yourself legal with insurance etc.

Here's some snippets of info for anyone converting an ex-ambulance.  The live supply to the ignition may be routed through the contactor box (under the seat in this case).  These contactors act as split charge relay, emergency connect, and crew-controlled battery isolators, possibly via switches on the dash.  Also if the vehicle has a hook-up connector on the outside it will likely be non-standard, it won't take a blue campsite-type socket, and it will probably contain a switch which prevents the engine from being started when the vehicle is plugged in.  The rear cabin lighting, ventilation etc. is controlled by a dedicated system (which may have been removed).  The control panels for this system are data-linked to the main box by RJ45 cables, so it works a bit like CANBUS.  In short you either use it as it is, or start from scratch.  If you remove parts of the harness, make sure you can restore it if things stop working!

If it has air suspension make sure it works OK - another thing that would be tricky to repair.

The flooring will incorporate a fixing system for trolleys and wheelchairs.  This is all bolted through the floor and would be a pig to remove if you wanted to change it.  The cab bulkhead is also a structural steel affair.  There's loads of weight in all this stuff!  And a fair bit of work in clearing out the seating, fixtures and fittings.

Depending on your situation, and skills, if you want a fully customised vehicle, it might be easier to buy a panel van and fit windows.  Or a minibus.  If you've got time, and reasonable engineering skills, then an ambulance might be a bargain.

Hi.
That's good general advice.  The makers don't seem willing to reply to anyone who isn't a real customer of their's so they've not been much help. The ambulances I've looked at have had a number of processor controlled boxes in the cab which variously control the communications, charging systems, the winch,  the cabin lighting, heating, ventilation etc. and are linked into the van's own system for the doors and the immobiliser amongst other things.  An extensive wiring loom exists behind the seats. To leave this rat's nest of cables intact would be a challenge, especially if removing the partition to fit swivelling seats.  I suppose it could be concealed beneath some sort of false floor, which would be a bit of a bodge.  It would be better to remove this harness if possible.  Maybe a visit to the local ambulance depot might give a few clues.

Hi all.
Having done a couple of conversions, Ive now started on an ex-ambulance.  I'm an electrician, but the alterations made by the original conversion company are difficult to suss out.  They have seemingly integrated the rear cabin electrics and controls into the van's own loom in various ways.  In particular there is an isolator switch on the dash which cuts off the both batteries, except that some parts of the system are still live, eg. the imobiliser.  As it's a Renault Master with CANBUS there is no easy way to trace the cables.   If I just start chopping wires it won't end well. 
Does anyone out there have any knowledge of how the wiring is altered?  A schematic would be great!
Cheers
Roy