electric would only be to power devices not for heating etc. Like i said, just looking for a decent (and reasonably priced) setup. Recommendations etc.
thanks again
thanks again
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Show posts MenuQuote from: kryten on November 22, 2015, 11:01:43 PM
Can we assume from your post that you will mainly be static? If you will be moving, even if not daily, then wiring your batteries to charge while your driving will mean you need fewer solar panels. Don't forget more panels equals more weight and more fuel used.
If you are concerned about running out of power then you should be looking at equipment that use less power, like led bulbs for lighting.
Quote from: scottdimelow on October 16, 2015, 10:09:37 PM
I'd thoroughly recommend a luton. Their squareness makes it really easy to work on.
Have a look at my blog, I've just started it. I should be adding some interior stuff over the weekend too.
www.myhousecanmove.com
Quote from: Camper Van Travels on March 20, 2015, 02:44:25 PM
Here you go, anyone in the UK can easily put two of these on their van roof. 160 watts each (320 watts total) which is more than enough for most people's needs. (12V fridge, laptop, TV/DVD, LED lighting etc;)
Just £133.76 each including post. With the best offer option available, try at £125 and chances are you'll get it. With free delivery that's not bad at all.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160W-12V-Photovoltaic-Solar-Panel-160Watt-12Volt-Monocrystalline-Solar-Module-/350934331204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item51b550ef44
If you want to aim the solar panels straight at the sun, just use car hatchback boot struts available for less than a fiver a pair.
To wire them up in parallel the waterproof connectors can be bought for less than £10 on eBay.
The solar charge controller for these would cost no more than £30 max on eBay.
The roof grommet can be made out of a plastic food/sandwich container and can be bought new for £1.
The wire going from the charge controller to the 12V batteries similarly would cost no more than a fiver.
The battery connectors can be bought for less than £5 new or much less from a vehicle breakers yard.
The 12V batteries you can use ordinary car batteries the bigger the better for holding a longer charge. These can also be bought at any car scrapyard for between £15-20 each. I use 3 in total in the back of the van, they've lasted so far 5 years and they're still going strong.
4 hours approximately to fully charge a 12V battery from flat.
Each battery will easily last the night.
A pure sine wave inverter can be bought for under £50 into which you can plug in a 3-pin ordinary household electrical plug, for example a four socket extension.
Put an extra 12V battery under the bonnet and you can use this battery to power your on board stereo. Use a relay switch on the dashboard to switch to the main engine battery for starting up in the morning. As soon as you start the engine both batteries will be charging up again.
Total outlay: +/- £400 total depending on the options you choose to use.
Simple.
Quote from: Mike on March 21, 2015, 07:15:18 AMQuote from: derekbartz on March 03, 2015, 02:22:42 AM
I have been working on the electrical and am modeling my system based off vandog's "12V electrical and wiring for my campervan conversion," except I will not be installing a mains hookup and am not even sure what battery monitoring is therefore have not included it.
I am wondering how to correctly use the 12V fuse box without having it connected to my MPPT controller? I had planned to connect it directly to my leisure battery, is this possible?
Also, I have no idea what the terminals for the switches are doing in your system?
All a bit overwhelming so any help would be great. Thanks and killer site Vandog.
Hey. Battery monitoring is just a volt readout display to monitor battery condition and also a current readout to monitor instantaneous power usage (in Amps) - but yeah you don't really need it.
I'm not sure what you mean about not wanting to connect the fusebox to your solar controller though. If you are using a solar controller, the things you are powering will have to connect to it, which means the fusebox as well.
I think with stuff like this, it's really useful to know just the minimum about DC circuits since everyone has different requirements - then you can build it up bit by bit yourself however you want
My post isn't very clear though - it wasn't really done with the intention of it being reproduced. I'm working on another version
Quote from: Camper Van Travels on February 23, 2015, 07:00:52 PM
Also it might be worth considering European breakdown cover.
For this service go to the German equivalent of the AA, it's cost effective and excellent value for money - ADAC. (You might need to confirm on the telephone that this is still being made available to drivers in the UK - don't worry they speak perfect English). This breakdown company was established 112 years ago.
I think it's less than 100 euros for full European cover. In other words, if your van develops a major fault in lets say Corinth, Greece - you will get the full recovery service back to the French port for the ferry crossing back to the UK where your UK breakdown cover will take over and take you back home or to a garage for repairs.
More information can be found here:
http://www.adac.de/mitgliedschaft/adac_membership/
Quote from: Tai-chi wanderer on February 23, 2015, 10:27:13 AM
A lot of Euro countries have different approaches to the MOT situation, as long as you are insured and have all your docs, you will be okay. I don't know about 6 months out of date though. Me personally would arrange to be back for the MOT and your tax.
If you are going away long term, sort it before you depart.
Ie: get it Moted and taxed, plus full insurance.
You will get away with a lot of lax stuff, until you run over something/one, then all your docs have to be squeaky clean. Otherwise you are in clink before you can say Bobs your watsit.
Don't chance it, Euro drivers are as bad as ours, even if it's their fault you are the foreigner.
Besides if you are travelling for more than a year all the local rules will apply, whatever.
Quote from: treevorb on February 23, 2015, 08:30:27 AM
I haven't thought about this yet, we always come back for the winter and the MOT is due in Jan.
After talking to the guys at the testing station they told me I would need to get it booked in for a test as soon as I got back in UK to be legal here. They did not want to comment on the legalities of MOT expiring and still using your vehicle abroad.
I guess your insurance would be invalid as soon as it ran out as with tax.
Whenever we have been stopped by the police for vehicle checks in other countries they only seem interested in driving license and insurance and as long as we have supplied these have had no problems. Whether they can do other checks by radio or computer like they do here I do not know but I have always thought at border crossings they can get information about the vehicle and it's occupants from the registration and as long as the names tally with the reg you get waved straight through. Exeptions to this being Albania and Montenegro where we had to buy insurance as we entered as our ins company did not use the 'green card' system.
I did hear something about the driver penalty points system becoming a Europe wide thing last week so the European authorities must have access to each others record systems to keep track on driver details so if this is the case for vehicle records to we will need to find out, you can bet they ar not going to let you continue in an old van if you are 3000 mile from home and your MOT expired 6 months ago, and whether the vehicle testing can be done in the country you are in will let you proceed.
We really need to find these things out before we get caught out.