It’s pretty normal to find rust has eaten right through the metal bodywork of a van that is more than a few years old. But most of the time it’s not as bad as it looks, and can most likely be repaired with fibreglass resin and patches.
Assuming the holes are not impairing the structural integrity of the vehicle, then it is probably safe repairing it with just fibreglass–without going near a welder. But if there is a hole in the floor that is big enough to put your fist through, and it’s near to a main chassis member, then it may need welding. If you are unsure about whether or not something needs welding, get someone at a garage to have a look at it–preferably the guy who will be doing your MOT.
In my van I had a few holes in the floor that I repaired using fibreglass resin and patches. I’ll go through how I did it in 5 steps.
See my recommended products for van preparation – Note: these are affiliate links, which means you’ll be helping me if you buy using these links. Thank you!
1. Remove rust
After removing the loose paint and loose rust, I cut away any week edges of the metal to give the fibreglass a good solid surface to bond to.
2. Apply rust treatment
I applied rust treatment (this one) to convert any remaining rust before putting the fibreglass on. You can also paint at this stage also, but not really necessary.
3. Prepare fibreglass resin
I prepared the fiberglass (this one) by mixing the resin and the hardener, as directed on the bottle. It’s a good idea to only make up a small amount of fibreglass resin at a time because it starts to thicken and set very quickly–you have to work fast.
Note: you definitely need to wear gloves when working with fibreglass. This stuff is really difficult to get off your hands when it sets.
4. Prepare fibreglass patches
I cut out rectangles of the fibreglass matt and soaked them with the fibreglass resin and hardener solution using brush.
5. Place patches
If the hole is more than a few cm (like in my example) you can apply more than one patch. I used 3 patches–each one with more fibreglass than the last. You may need to dab some more resin around the edges of the patch to keep it held down. It’s also better, if applying more than one patch, to wait after each one has set hard so that it doesn’t sag in the middle.
Things I learnt:
- the power of rust should not be underestimated. It ruins everything and can render a vehicle worthless if neglected.
- the fibre glass patches will take ages to dry causing it to sag if too little hardener is used. I shall not skimp on hardener next time
- fibre glass resin does not come off hands. Gloves next time
- rust gets in eyes. Glasses next time
- the most important one: there is always more rust!
I am doing loads of rust repair myself on my ford transit. I prefer to use chickenwire and polyesterfiller with longstrand fiberglass, then shortstrand and then just fine filler and loooots of sanding. 🙂
Here’s a big hole i plugged yesterday https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/103187896492776581504/albums/5997604100036777953
wow – this website has absolutely EVERYTHING i’ve been wondering about converting my astro van into a camper home. Thank you so much, i appreciate it so so so so so much!
No problem. Glad you are finding it useful. I’ve been saying it for ages but there will be a guides section soon
Hello, just to let you know that the link for Davids fastglass has lost the h in http:// which has broken the link.
Thanks Kio! Fixed it now
This is impressive, Did you have any problems with waxoyl fumes when you were living in the van?
hey vandogtraveller, i have thoroughly enjoyed looking at your blog. you have been an inspiration to me and many others i’ve no doubt about that 🙂 wondering if you could spare some advice for a lady who knows so little about vans but is keen to enjoy the van lifestyle. (need somewhere to live) I only have a budget of a grand and i have managed to find a k reg ford transit, LWB high top. amazingly it is only said to have done 46,000 miles as it was mainly used as a standing still home. I am so keen to buy as the engine is in brilliant nick, i can trust that as many people have told me but i do fear the amount of filler on the van and have concerns about rust. Should i worry too much about rust on the body of the van if there is no obviously issues underneath do you think? I would appreciate your advice as i am beside myself with worrying about handing over dosh and getting ripped off!!! Arghhhh!, wish i had done mechanical engineering in uni 🙂 I hope you are still loving every minute of your travelling experience, i often think about you and wish i could trade places 🙂
Hey Rebecca, how did you get on? you’re right to be hesitant. I highly recommend you find a friends or someone to go and check it out with you. If it’s just cosmetic, I wouldn’t worry. You say about the amount of filler though. That would make me wonder what else is hiding. There are plenty more transits around and the engines are pretty tough anyway so I wouldn’t get caught up trying to get a real low milage.
Rust never sleeps.
Hi vandog, I’m now fixing my ldv van to make it again a campervan (dismounted it all to fix leaks and clean all rust inside) and everytime I google how to fix something your blog appears. Its been a huge help. 🙂 I’m now sanding out all the rust and there are really bad spots and I’ve made some holes when hammering it out. For the patches could I use as well epoxy resin? Do you have any thoughts about it, and did you applied the patches when still wet so it hardener into the hole? And I was thinking of painting the floor of the van before putting the insulation, with a rust inhibitor oil and prime it. Any advices? Thank you so much. I love my ldv, so wanna make her as nice and resistant as possible.
Epoxy will work fine. You’re best off rust treating & painting before glassing tbh. Bilt Hamber do some very good rust removal & treatment..
Where can you get the ‘patches’ that he is using to cover the holes with?
Or what is the actual name of the ‘patches’?
Hey, it’s just fibreglass matting. You can get it from any car body shop or marine/boat shops
Hey
Ive got an ldv convoy, theres not really any rust or holes in the bottom of the van (yay) but has some rather large holes in the roof. Although it has and will pass mot, I want a permenant fix.
Ive fiberglassed the holes and they’re not leaking, do you think it’s worth welding? How long approx does fiberglass last? 2 of the holes are very small, pretty much cracks but one I couldve probs fit my head through. The roof doesnt feel metal like the rest of the van so not sure welding would even be worth it? Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Holly
I just found major rust holes near both wheel wells on my Dodge Ram b1500! How do you suggest patching on a curve? Also- how big of a hassle is welding if you maybe know someone who can? Is it a simpler process?
And how long did it actually take for your patches to dry? I don’t have forever. Ha. Also how much did the fiberglass patching materials cost?
Thanks!
-Jackie